The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants

I know that when I return to Maui after visiting a cold climate, the first thing I want to do is kick off my covered shoes and slide into a comfy pair of rubber slippers.

Maui restaurateur Bob Longhi took it a step further when he first arrived on Maui in 1976 from New York City, where he was covered from head to toe and wore three-piece suits. He kicked off his shoes and went barefoot — for several years, gaining notoriety.

“He had 40 suits back on the Mainland, so when he got to Hawaii he said he wasn’t going to wear shoes anymore,” says his son Peter Longhi, who runs the original Longhi’s Lahaina as well as Longhi’s Wailea. “One day back then in a torrential rain, he put shoes on and walked through a giant mud puddle. Somebody yelled, ‘This is when you aren’t supposed to wear shoes, Bob!’ “

Both Longhi’s on Maui will be celebrating the 40th birthday of the original restaurant through January with a $40 four-course menu of some famous ’70s signature dishes and offer $40 bottles from the award-winning wine list. In February, you may savor an ’80s menu, and in March, you may savor tastes from the ’90s at the same prices.

The background of the “man who loved to eat” is quite colorful and intriguing and so it warrants exploration here.

The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants

“Maui’s Most Opinionated Restaurateur,” as was the title of his cookbook, passed away at age 79 in 2012.

“I respected Bob so much. He was such an incredible guy,” says Buffalo Bill Wittman, a longtime Mauian. “He was an eccentric genius who ran this extraordinary restaurant, yet he was famous for not wearing shoes. I was telling his story one day in Paia, and Bob pulled up and jumped out of a little white Porsche, walked over to me and pointed to his feet, and on them were fine Italian white leather shoes. He said, ‘I just got them, my first pair of Maui shoes. What do you think?’ “

“Right at that moment, my friend said, ‘That must be Bob Longhi.’ “

But how did he transform from being a “suit” in the Big Apple to hanging loose on Maui, sans the shoes?

“In New York, he sold life insurance and tax shelter annuities of pension plans to cities and counties,” says Peter. “He brought 50 of his employees out to Maui as an incentive trip and was eating here at what was then Capt. Jack’s. He ordered a Greek salad but there was no feta cheese in it. He was such a foodie. He knew he could do a better job and asked the owner if any restaurants were for sale.”

The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants

The guy said that the very building Bob was dining in was under Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Bob bought it and opened Longhi’s Cafe in Dec. 26, 1976. He later shortened it to just Longhi’s at 888 Front St. in Lahaina.

“He never moved back to New York,” Peter says. “Everyone thought he was crazy. But he just loved to cook and eat. He’d go to Europe all the time and dine at 1, 2 and 3 Michelin-starred restaurants.”

While there are a number of mom-and-pop establishments on Maui that have far surpassed the 40-year mark with the same family, only one other fine-dining restaurant comes to mind and that is Mama’s Fish House & Inn in Kuau on Maui’s north shore.

“In this category, restaurants come and make their mark and the principals go on and create another concept,” says Karen Christenson, the vice president of Mama’s Fish House and the daughter of the iconic restaurant’s founders, Floyd and Doris Christenson.

“I went to school with his son Charlie, “ she continues. “I met his dad, Bob, through friends in Lahaina. From what I know from others is that he was just one of those people who fell in love with Maui and stayed. It just grabbed him. To go on and raise his family and have such a legacy is remarkable. His kids are still running his restaurants.”

Fleetwood Mac singer Stevie Nicks and Beatle George Harrison (at top from left) are composing lyrics for a parody of “Here Comes The Sun” with “Moon” swapped for “Sun” in the title at Harrison’s Nahiku home with Bob Longhi (lower left). MARY DeVITTO photo

Bob’s son Charlie runs the new Longhi’s Ko Olina on Oahu (replacing Ala Moana); and daughter Carol O’Leary is a partner in Lahaina. Beyond family, Beatle George Harrison was among his friends.

“Bob took George and Olivia Harrison to Hana for the first time, looking for land. They first went to Huelo to visit land passed on to me. But they ended up with their tropical farm out in Nahiku,” says Wittman.

“Their son, Dhani, his name has come up four or five times in the last couple of months. He’s got a big recording studio out in Kula and he’s doing sound tracks for movies of females who surf Jaws,” he continues.

On that first trip to Hana, Harrison and Bob were accompanied by Fleetwood Mac singer Stevie Nicks.

“George Harrison wrote a song for my dad called ‘Soft Hearted Hana,’ “ says Peter. “It was supposedly about a mushroom trip. George also wrote a song for my dad and Jackie Stewart, the Formula 1 racer, on the album simply called ‘George Harrison.’ “

Harrison dined at Longhi’s many times and the upstairs koa dance floor was the place to kick up your heels to top local bands and icons such as Fleetwood Mac. Prince was a Longhi’s regular over four Christmas vacations.

It has a star-studded patron list, for sure.

“Bob was a great raconteur, never holding back on an expletive-emphasized opinion,” penned Maui Beat writer Jon Woodhouse in Maui Scene after the “man who loves to eat” passed away in 2012.

“He loved jazz and attracted our best to jam at his restaurant. And who but Bob would subtitle a cookbook, ‘from Maui’s Most Opinionated Restaurateur?’ And, who but Bob would select staff shirts with w.t.f. on the sleeves?” says Woodhouse, adding, “He was so into astrology, he would only hire water signs to work there in the early days.”

The eccentric restaurateur was ahead of his time, in terms of having verbal menus back in the day and utilizing local ingredients as well as importing top products from, say, Italy, such as Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses of the utmost quality. Even with high food costs, Longhi’s was ranked the Top 10th highest grossing restaurant in the United States.

“Longhi’s was one of the first farm-to-table restaurants on Maui along with Mama’s Fish House and it’s always had a large commitment to quality,” says longtime General Manager Michael Rose. “I’ve always been so impressed with the Longhi family’s philosophy on food, otherwise I wouldn’t have stayed so long.”

Another longtimer is Guy Corti, who was at Capt. Jack’s before it was even Longhi’s. He sure knows how to cook the famous breakfasts.

Seven eggs Benedicts have been on the menu since 1977, including toppings of lox, crab cakes, lobster, Florentine and Mediterranean, the latter with a grilled polenta base. Longhi’s also had the first cappuccino machine in West Maui.

“My dad didn’t like the breads and desserts sold here, so we started baking our own,” Peter adds. ” ‘It’s real food that you are making,’ he would tell me.”

Moving forward to today, Longhi’s continues to source the best ingredients of both local and imported foods, uses organic when possible and serves large portions. Gelato is now made in house. The pizza bread rocks.

They encourage family-style dining of the Mediterranean cuisine, and the wine program is at the top of Hawaii’s heap. It wins the Best Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator each year. Wailea offers 65 wines by the glass and Lahaina, more than 20.

Do take a stroll back in time to savor the ’70s menu this month with pasta Genovese, Greek salad, and your choice of shrimp Longhi, prime New York steak, eggplant parmesan or fresh Hawaiian fish. Dessert is zuppa Inglese Italian sponge cake. With prime steak in a four course for $40, you’ll feel like you traveled to the ’70s. But other things have changed. Like — you need to wear shoes. Of course, you would feel right at home in your rubber slippers as Longhi’s exudes a casual elegance.

• Dining Editor Carla Tracy can be reached at .

The late Bob Longhi as a happy Maui restaurateur seated in his iconic and original Longhi’s Lahaina on Front Street. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants
The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants

The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants
The late Bob Longhi circa early ’60s in New York City. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants
Fleetwood Mac singer Stevie Nicks and Beatle George Harrison (at top from left) are composing lyrics for a parody of “Here Comes The Sun” with “Moon” swapped for “Sun” in the title at Harrison’s Nahiku home with Bob Longhi (lower left). MARY DeVITTO photo

A decorative tray can serve to collect a group of items put together on a table. Betsy Burnham photo via AP
Framed prints of playing cards by William Wegman are propped up to form a whimsical backdrop for other decorative items. Betsy Burnham photo via AP
Rachel Linkous, with Christopher Rannefors, both of Lexington, Ky., shows off her engagement ring after he proposed in June while the two foraged for wild mushrooms, flowers and herbs near Asheville, N.C. No Taste Like Home photo via AP

Maui sculptor Dale Zarrella with “The Maui Mermaid” that he unveiled recently at a party at his Kihei home on Charley Young Beach. Photo courtesy of the artist


The signature lobster risotto stands the test of time as one of the most popular dishes. Photo courtesy Longhi’s restaurants
Dozens of people were at the unveiling of “The Maui Mermaid,” blessed by Kimokea Kapahulehua (left) and Uncle Les Kuloloio (right), and created by Kihei sculptor Dale Zarrella at his oceanfront lawn atop Charley Young Beach. The Maui News / CARLA TRACY photo

Ruby Hernandez photo
A skier enjoys a run on the opening day of ski season at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area in Colorado in October. The ski industry skews big, with megaresorts adding terrain and attractions. Smaller resorts can’t compete with the big guys, so they tout authenticity. AP file photo

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